The History of Mustard

Mustard is the oldest condiment of the "big three," with a history stretching back over 5,000 years. From ancient civilizations grinding seeds as medicine to Roman legions spreading it across Europe to French monks perfecting Dijon, mustard's journey mirrors the history of civilization itself. Unlike mayo or ketchup, mustard wasn't invented - it evolved naturally from humans discovering that crushed mustard seeds, when mixed with liquid, create a pungent, flavorful paste that preserves food and enhances taste.

Ancient Origins (3000 BCE): Medicine and Spice

The earliest evidence of mustard use dates to around 3000 BCE in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt. Mustard seeds were mentioned in Sumerian texts, where they were used as both a spice and a medicinal plant. Ancient Egyptians chewed mustard seeds and mixed them with food, believing they aided digestion and treated various ailments.

The seeds themselves come from three plants in the Brassica family: white/yellow mustard (Sinapis alba), brown mustard (Brassica juncea), and black mustard (Brassica nigra). All three grow wild across Europe, Asia, and North Africa, making mustard one of the most accessible spices in the ancient world.

In ancient Greece and China, mustard was prized for its medicinal properties. Greek physician Hippocrates used mustard in medicines and poultices. Ancient Chinese texts describe mustard as a digestive aid and treatment for respiratory issues. The pungency of mustard seeds was thought to clear sinuses and stimulate appetite.

Ancient Rome (1st Century CE): The First Condiment

The Romans were the first to transform mustard from a spice into a condiment. They ground mustard seeds and mixed them with unfermented grape juice called "must," creating mustum ardens (burning must) - the origin of the word "mustard."

Roman recipes from "De re coquinaria," a 4th-5th century cookbook, describe mustard mixed with wine, vinegar, honey, olive oil, and spices. This thick paste was used to glaze roasted meats, preserve food, and add heat to bland dishes. Roman legions carried mustard wherever they went, using it to flavor rations and preserve meat during long campaigns. As the Roman Empire expanded, mustard spread across Europe, taking root in Gaul (modern-day France), Britain, and Germany.

The Romans also invented honey mustard, one of the earliest flavor variations. Recipes called for mixing ground mustard seeds with honey, vinegar, and spices - a combination still popular today.

Medieval Europe (13th Century): Dijon Emerges

By the Middle Ages, mustard had become a European staple, but quality varied wildly. Street vendors sold cheap, adulterated mustard, often mixed with flour or sawdust to stretch profits. Enter the French city of Dijon, which became synonymous with premium mustard by the 13th century.

Dijon's location in Burgundy, a wine-producing region, gave mustard makers access to high-quality vinegar and verjuice (acidic juice from unripe grapes). In 1336, mustard was served at the table of King Philip VI of France, cementing its status as a refined condiment worthy of royalty.

Dijon established strict regulations for mustard production, creating guilds to control quality and standardize recipes. By the 1600s, Dijon was producing millions of pots of mustard annually, exporting it across Europe. The city's coat of arms even featured mustard pots, reflecting its economic importance.

Jean Naigeon's Innovation (1856)

The modern Dijon mustard we know today was invented in 1856 by Jean Naigeon, a Dijon mustard maker. He replaced vinegar with verjuice, giving Dijon its signature smooth, sharp flavor without harsh acidity. Naigeon's recipe used brown or black mustard seeds ground into a fine paste, creating a creamy texture distinctly different from grainy mustards.

This innovation made Dijon the gold standard for smooth, refined mustard, and the name "Dijon" became protected, though today it refers more to the style than the geographic origin (much of "Dijon" mustard is now made outside France).

British Mustard: Colman's (1814)

In Britain, mustard took a different path. Colman's Mustard, founded by Jeremiah Colman in 1814, became the dominant brand. Colman's used a mix of brown and white mustard seeds ground into a fine powder, which customers mixed with water to make a fiery paste.

British mustard is notoriously strong - much hotter than French Dijon. The phrase "hot as Colman's" became British slang for intensity. Colman's bright yellow mustard (colored with turmeric) became a staple of British roast dinners, served alongside beef and pork.

American Mustard: The Yellow Revolution (1904)

When European immigrants brought mustard to America, it was primarily Dijon-style or brown mustard. But in 1904, George J. French changed everything. At the St. Louis World's Fair, French introduced "cream salad mustard" - a mild, bright yellow mustard made with white mustard seeds, vinegar, turmeric (for color), and sugar.

This yellow mustard was sweeter, milder, and less pungent than European varieties, perfectly suited to American tastes. It became the default hot dog mustard, synonymous with baseball games, summer cookouts, and American fast food culture. French's yellow mustard remains the best-selling mustard in the United States.

Mustard Around the World

As mustard spread globally, regional variations emerged:

• German Mustard: Ranges from sweet Bavarian mustard (served with Weisswurst sausages) to spicy Dusseldorf mustard. German mustard is often coarse and contains vinegar, giving it a sharper bite than French varieties.

• English Mustard: Strong, hot, and bright yellow (Colman's). Often served with roast beef and traditionally mixed fresh from powder.

• Whole-Grain Mustard: Contains partially crushed mustard seeds, creating a coarse texture. Popular in France (moutarde l'ancienne) and Germany.

• Chinese Hot Mustard: Made from brown mustard seeds mixed with water (no vinegar), creating an intensely hot, wasabi-like paste. Common in Chinese restaurants as a dipping sauce.

• Honey Mustard: A modern favorite, blending honey with Dijon or yellow mustard. Traces back to Roman recipes but became a commercial hit in the 1970s-80s.

The Chemistry of Mustard's Heat

Mustard's signature "bite" comes from isothiocyanates, volatile compounds released when mustard seeds are crushed and mixed with liquid. These chemicals activate pain receptors in your nose and mouth, creating that sharp, sinus-clearing sensation.

Interestingly, dry mustard seeds have no heat. The reaction only happens when an enzyme called myrosinase (present in the seeds) interacts with water, releasing isothiocyanates. This is why mustard powder must be mixed with liquid to activate its flavor, and why adding acid (like vinegar) slows the reaction, controlling the level of heat.

Mustard Today: Ancient Spice, Modern Staple

From ancient Sumerian tablets to French royal banquets to American hot dog stands, mustard has survived and thrived for 5,000 years. It's one of the few condiments that's remained essentially unchanged in concept: crushed seeds mixed with liquid to create a pungent, flavorful paste.

Today, mustard is the third most popular condiment globally (after salt and pepper), with hundreds of regional varieties. Whether you prefer smooth Dijon, grainy whole-seed, fiery English, or mild American yellow, you're participating in a culinary tradition older than most civilizations. And every time you squeeze that bottle onto a sausage, you're tasting history - one sharp, tangy bite at a time.